The control freak in me likes to be able to exercise absolute authority over my images.  As part of my regimen,  I shoot in camera raw in order to maintain as much control as possible and save the initial camera files on their own hard drive.  The first sort is copied as a PSD file to a different drive, and JPG files are derived from the PSD drive and stored on yet another drive.  Yet even when shooting this way, I do not always capture a scene the way I envision it.  That is where Photoshop comes in.  The power of Photoshop lies in the ability to manipulate an image as much or as little as you desire.  But if you do this recklessly, you can easily destroy your image.  You have a couple of ways to preserve your image, copy the original file or work in layers.  I choose to work in layers.

When working in layers, there are a multitude of adjustments you can make without harming the background image directly.  Levels, Brightness, Contrast, Hue, Saturation, Vibrance, and more can be applied either through a layer or directly to the background image (the latter is not a wise choice because you can not undo it if you decide you don’t like it at a later date).  To further enhance your ability to play with the image, one can also add masks to any layer so that the adjustment made only affects those parts you intend it to (a feature far more powerful than dodging and burning in the chemical darkroom).

Adjustment layers are made by either going to the drop down menu for layers and selecting “New Adjustment Layer” or by clicking on the half filled circle icon at the bottom of the layers pallet and selecting the style of adjustment you want.  You can use many layers and mask them as needed to create the image that satisfies you.

Masks will be discussed in a later article.

 

Efficiency in Photoshop is achieved by having a standardized work flow.  This does not mean you must do things in the exact same way I outline here, but be consistent in how you do things.

My shooting is done in camera raw.  I shoot this way because I am a control freak of the highest order when it comes to my photography.  Shooting in camera raw means that I am generating an image file that contains the maximum amount of information my camera can produce.  I use a Nikon D300 set to produce a 14 bit image without compression.  The image is created so as to have the best possible exposure possible for the conditions at the scene.

When I download the card, it is done via Nikon Transfer software to a folder on a hard drive that only contains raw downloaded images.  These images are then copied via Adobe’s DNG converter to another folder on another hard drive that contains files to be edited.  This is the first layer of redundancy used to prevent losing data.  These drives are backed up every time changes occur to yet another hard drive (external)  that contains only back up information.

As soon as the files are ready, I open them up in Adobe Bridge.  I rate the pictures and then copy the starred images to my work in progress folders.  I then check levels and make sure that the images are ready to go into photoshop.  If the images are only for web use, my work is usually done by creating a Jpeg file here.

If the shot involves people, I fix any problems involving skin tones, eyes, and teeth before proceeding.  If dodging or burning are needed now is the time for this work as well.  I use several standardized adjustment made using hue and saturation over the mid tones, followed by curves adjustments to their light, dark, shadow dark, and mid tone areas.  If the shot is for portraiture, I make a further enhancement by darkening the edges and corners a tad.  It is then that I size the photograph and make any adjustments in sharpening that are needed.   My print files are most often 300 dpi with 12″ x 18″ dimensions and web images are at 72 dpi and 720 pixels for the long edge.