One common mistake people seem to make is not having their equipment ready to be used before they leave on vacation.  Check and charge the batteries for your camera and flash.  Format your compact flash or sd cards and put them in their case so that they are ready to be used at a moments notice.  Have you made sure that your lenses are clean and function correctly?  Is your sensor clean, or have you image mapped the dust spots?  If you are taking a tripod or monopod, have you made sure the mechanisms move smoothly and lock tight without needing to be over tightened?  Is your camera bag packed so that nothing moves around in a way that can cause damage?  Is the bag also packed so that you can easily find and get to anything you want or need?  A few minutes making sure your gear is ready can save you hours of grief later on.

Have a great trip!

Apr 192010
 

I’ve been shooting events. No real surprise there as the only events I prefer not to shoot are weddings (I prefer to select people I am going to shoot, without the added pressure of a “mostly” once in a lifetime affair, but I will work as a second shooter for my wife). When preparing to shoot an event, there are many things to consider:

Venue – These range from huge outdoor areas to cramped rooms packed tightly with people. Many don’t allow flash. Some require all people that have “pro gear” (more often than not pro gear is a camera with a big lens on it) to either be registered or have a media pass.

Lighting – Light changes constantly out doors, but not nearly as much as some venues for dancing. In harsh sunlight, you need to use fill flash or try to shoot your subjects in areas of diffuse light. At low light level dances, even if the use of flash is permitted, you may want to use a high ISO to minimize the impact the flash will have on your subjects. Stoffen or Gary Fong filters used on your flash will give more diffuse light for most situations. Bounced flash is often used, but in order to use it well, you have to be aware of ceiling height (or bounce your light off of a white shirt (unless you can manage to get someone to hold a reflector). The lighting also determines your ISO and white balance choices.

Type of Event – This dictates your lens, shutter speed, and where you will place yourself. Shooting sports from bleachers requires a longer lens than the dance floor at a nightclub. A fast shutter speed is not often necessary to capture a politician at a campaign rally, but is required if you want to catch the water spray as a diver enters a pool. If taking candid shots, you don’t stand in the middle of the action.

ISO choice – This can be forced upon you by the lighting or speed of the action. I sometimes choose my ISO because i want the overall feeling I am attempting to achieve to be something different. I tend to shoot Swing bands and dancers using a very high ISO so I can get noise that simulates film grain, the result of which is more reminiscent of the images from the 1940′s.

Swing Dancers

Event photography for me is not simply recording an instant of time, it is making that moment’s emotional impact a bit more easily felt. The above photo would not have the same impact had I shot and processed it to be a a color, non vignetted shot.

 
 January 4, 2010  Posted by Habenero at 3:08 pm How To, Photography , , ,  No Responses »

The sun is not always your friend when it comes to taking pictures of people out doors.  It can lead to harsh shadows, squinting eyes   Typically those with no training tend to shoot daylight photos with the sun behind them like this:

Ever wonder how some people are able to shoot in the midday sun in Phoenix without getting harsh shadows or squinting subjects?  Positioning the subject in shade is not always your best option. Using reflected light off of surrounding objects can help.  You can try these things in any combination, but they still might not be enough and that’s when strobes (flashes not mounted on camera) or flashes come in to play.

Some people like to use their flash to fill in shadows when the sun is used as the key light.  I don’t like doing this as it often means the subject(s) are squinting and being blinded doubly when the flash goes off.  I prefer to use the sun as my hairlight and use 2 strobes to balance the sunlight.

The strobes I use in the field are Nikon SB800, SB80DX, SB28, and or an SB24.  I use them with various modifiers as needed including a DIY Beauty Dish, shoot through umbrellas, and gels.  Shooting towards the sun makes the camera’s meter misgauge the light needed to make my shots so I usually will check it with a separate meter, or guess at it (years of experience helps).  I generally decide upon the aperture I wish to use and meter the light at my subject facing the camera to determine the right exposure time.

If you wish to make your own lighting diagrams, visit http://www.KevinKertx.com or Lighting Essentials to obtain one.

I heartily recommend that you visit Lighting Essentials if you want