Cheap access to powerful camera equipment makes it so anybody that wants to call themselves a photographer does so. The big camera manufacturers, Nikon, Canon, Pentax, etc., have put a lot of effort into figuring out what and how most people shoot and their latest cameras are designed to enhance those aspects of photos. When a photo straight out of the camera looks good, the logical question follows, Why should I pay someone to take a picture I can do myself? Is there a reason to hire a photographer? Can’t everyone with a good camera take great pictures?

You should never hire a photographer to take a picture you yourself could do! You do not hire a photographer because his camera is better than yours, it may not be. You do not hire a photographer just because you need someone to push the button on a camera. You hire a photographer that has a particular style of work you like. The artistic vision of a photographer is his knowledge of what his camera can do, what types of poses fit the occasion, and the kind of post processing he or his lab performs. Photographers look not only at the subject, but also at the details in the background, foreground, and middle ground and use their choices of white balance, ISO, shutter speed, f-stop, and sense of timing to create their shot. You hire a photographer because you like what they create out of a scene.

Equipment is not capable of compensating for mistakes like; the lamp post growing out of Uncle Bob’s head, the garbage can just behind the banquet table, or the toilet seen in the mirror the bride is using to apply her makeup. Your photographer should see those things and adjust the shot to compensate (they will not be in his direct from camera shots). The most expensive camera when placed in the hands of a novice will produce pictures that look like they were shot by a novice. A good photographer, can take just about any camera and compose a shot that looks great.

The best photographers get great shots consistently right out of the camera, but will still have a bit of post processing done. Photoshop, Gimp or some other software will be used to ensure that skin tones will be correct in all shots, that minor blemishes not already concealed by makeup are hidden, and that the look of the images remains consistent. Be wary of any photographer that does not do any post production work.

Some photographers create works of art! Even if you know where a particular shot was done, and the time of day, you may not be able to capture a shot similar to the one done by a photographic master. Cameras set in “program” mode with auto white balance are by nature, going to give a good exposure for skin tones. Most great landscapes come out rather poorly when shot that way. Overly red or orange scenes throw off the camera’s sensor, similarly, so will overly dark or overly light scenes. There is far more to taking a picture than pushing a button. If you see a photographic work that you like, buy it! If it is one of mine, I will gladly tell you how I created it! I assure you, since all photos tell lies (if only of omission), telling how I created the image you see is the only way you will find out the truth the image conveys!

 
 January 4, 2010  Posted by Habenero at 8:31 pm How To, Photography , , ,  No Responses »

Photographic images are created by light.  The average and below people who use cameras use whatever light is there and shoot away.  Those snapshots are then left in the drawers or placed in albums that are shown to guests they are trying to get rid of.  The photographs that hang on walls, are rarely taken by chance.  Light has either been manipulated to create a pleasing portrait, or it  happened to be just right for the subject to stand out.  In order to make pleasing photographs one must look at the light.

When you look at the portrait and still life paintings made by the old master painters one of the things that is apparent is that they saw and used light to enhance the dimensional aspects of the subject.  In most cases, one can see that early morning or late afternoon light was displayed.  Many artists liked the warm tones and softer shadows found during that time of day. Some artists prefer the shadowless light found from large north facing windows and skylights.  Very few, if any seem to like the glaring noon day sun.  If we apply these ideas to our photography, we end up with better photographs.  Most tourists and amateur photographers shoot during the “bad light” time of day.  To stand out we have to think about when to shoot or control our lighting.

Light for most still life or portraits rarely looks good if it is coming straight down from the top.  Think of taking a photo of your loved ones in front of the Grand Canyon at noon, nothing is going to look good in the shot but it is done all the time.   The same shot taken near sunrise or sunset with a little fill flash comes out looking fantastic.  Angled lighting looks good to us.  Thus we should angle the lights we use in the studio.

Light without shadow is boring.  To put a bit of life into the still life, be sure that at least one of your light sources is stronger than the rest.  To further add mystery, one can even use unconventional lighting (from below the subject).  If you are doing photography, light is the key element you are working with and as such, play with it.

In general, I like using diffuse lighting at about 30 degrees above and to the left of camera (angle as measured off a line from subject to camera lens) for shooting most still life projects.  This provides good modeling and requires less fill than other arrangements.  It is also the starting point for most of my portrait work.  For more of my portrait tips you should visit my portrait tips page.

Lighting Terms

Broad lighting – The difference between the key and fill light is less than 1 1/2 stops for this style of lighting.

Diffuse lighting is light that casts few spurious reflections. You can diffuse light by using shoot through umbrellas, or soft boxes or just about any translucent substance.

Feathered light is light off the rim of the soft box. It is softer than the light that is straight out of the soft box.

Fill light – Light used to decrease the appearance of shadows.

Gobo – Any object placed between a light source and the subject to create a shadowed area or limit the amount of light falling on the subject

Hair light – A light used to emphasize the hair and create the illusion of depth in the photograph.

Key light – The principle or main light used for creating the shadows used for modeling the subject.

Short lighting – Having only about half of a subject lit fully There is usually 2 1/2 to 3 stops difference between the key light and the fill light for this lighting.

Soft Box – A light source with a large diffusion panel designed to make the light source appear larger and cast feathered shadows